After thinking I may have ruined the whole project (See Part 2) by not allowing enough ease into the armholes, I decided I would rather go down trying than give up. Fortunately, I had discovered a good technique for sewing gussets when I drafted a pair of long underwear (HERE), and decided to give it a go in the armpits of the jacket. The gussets completely saved the project and allowed me to finish what will become a long lasting and warm jacket.
Continue reading “Puff Jacket Part 3”
In the beginning of this series, I left off with having finished the initial pattern block and the first test muslin (See Part 1). With a working block created, I was free to start drafting the real pattern. To do this, I needed to figure out how to incorporate the synthetic insulation, zippered pockets, and create methods to channel the various draw cords. The project moved along steadily during the drafting period, then hit some major hurdles during construction. It required some on-the-spot alterations, and a lot of seam ripping, but the final product fits and looks professional!
Continue reading “The Puff Jacket: Part 2”
I’ve tried a couple of different pattern drafting books in the past, and neither of them have been very good. There are missing steps, poorly written directions, elusive measurements that don’t work, etc. Fortunately, I stumbled across Myoungok Kim and Injoo Kim’s book, Pattern Making for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary. This book has the most clear instructions and diagrams I’ve seen in a drafting book, and produces fast and accurate results.
Continue reading “Torso Sloper Draft and Book Review”
The muslins have already been built, but I thought that I would include some before and after pictures. The light blue shirt is the original pattern, unaltered. The green flannel has a full bust adjustment, sleeve length, and shoulder width alterations.
Continue reading “Reading the Muslin”
The last post started to run long, so we’ll continue here. I used a variation on setting the sleeves, to make them easier to topstitch, and updated the sleeve plackets with a much better technique.
Continue reading “Finishing the Green Flannel”