I was up in Boise ID and bought a whole ton of awesome sportswear fabric from Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics! I’ve purchased from OWF before, and they provide fabrics from Polartec, Thinsulate, Apex, Gore-Tex, etc. These are the same fabrics that are used in commercial sports clothing, and will never be found in any Joann’s or similar type shop. Shipping is usually expensive for the bulky items (like insulation) so I couldn’t miss an opportunity to get some while I was in town.
After thinking I may have ruined the whole project (See Part 2) by not allowing enough ease into the armholes, I decided I would rather go down trying than give up. Fortunately, I had discovered a good technique for sewing gussets when I drafted a pair of long underwear (HERE), and decided to give it a go in the armpits of the jacket. The gussets completely saved the project and allowed me to finish what will become a long lasting and warm jacket.
In the beginning of this series, I left off with having finished the initial pattern block and the first test muslin (See Part 1). With a working block created, I was free to start drafting the real pattern. To do this, I needed to figure out how to incorporate the synthetic insulation, zippered pockets, and create methods to channel the various draw cords. The project moved along steadily during the drafting period, then hit some major hurdles during construction. It required some on-the-spot alterations, and a lot of seam ripping, but the final product fits and looks professional!
I’ve tried a couple of different pattern drafting books in the past, and neither of them have been very good. There are missing steps, poorly written directions, elusive measurements that don’t work, etc. Fortunately, I stumbled across Myoungok Kim and Injoo Kim’s book, Pattern Making for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary. This book has the most clear instructions and diagrams I’ve seen in a drafting book, and produces fast and accurate results.
This is the Oslo Coat from Tessuti Fabrics, made in a heavy weight, plain weave wool. This was made for my Mom’s 70th Birthday. I bought the fabric from Tissu Fabrics, which I think has the best fabrics available in the Salt Lake City area. The pattern is also one the better drafted patterns I have come across, with some very intricate details coming together perfectly. Continue reading “Tessuti Fabrics Oslo Coat”