I’ve tried a couple of different pattern drafting books in the past, and neither of them have been very good. There are missing steps, poorly written directions, elusive measurements that don’t work, etc. Fortunately, I stumbled across Myoungok Kim and Injoo Kim’s book, Pattern Making for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary. This book has the most clear instructions and diagrams I’ve seen in a drafting book, and produces fast and accurate results.
The motivation to draft this block, is that I want to make an insulated jacket that more resembles the modern RTW outdoor clothing companies like Black Diamond and Patagonia. As far as I’ve seen, there aren’t any pattern companies producing in that style. The closest I’ve seen are Jalie patterns, but their mens section is very limited.
To draft the basic block I used standard measurements from the book. I want the sloper to be reproducible and to follow established dimensions. Following the directions in the book I was able to draft out a front, back, and sleeve within a few hours.
The authors’ even explain an easy approach to notching the sleeve caps.
The best part about the whole thing, is that that all the pieces actually sewed together without issues. I was most surprised that the sleeve caps fit perfectly into the arm holes. So far the book is a great success, and worth every penny.
Now begins the more time-consuming part of designing the actual jacket, but things are beginning to come together. Within a week or so, I should have the first version of my own puff jacket!
See Part 2 HERE