This is the Oslo Coat from Tessuti Fabrics, made in a heavy weight, plain weave wool. This was made for my Mom’s 70th Birthday. I bought the fabric from Tissu Fabrics, which I think has the best fabrics available in the Salt Lake City area. The pattern is also one the better drafted patterns I have come across, with some very intricate details coming together perfectly.
I bought this pattern as a PDF, which ended up being a mistake because I needed to have it printed at a copy shop. The PDF version is over 100 pages, and I did not want to try and put that together at home. I’m also not a fan of tissue paper patterns, so I’m not sure whats worse. Oh well, I paid for the copy shop version. It was expensive, but really nice to work with.
Here’s a close up of the fabric weave:
The fabric looks coarse in the pictures, but has a very soft feel.
The pattern has a lot of interfacing. The whole front facing is interfaced, and numerous other portions of the sleeves, fronts, and bottom hems.
Above is the front facing of the coat, which also wraps around behind the neck and becomes the shawl collar. There is some neat construction involved with the notched portion of the facing and the back of the coat.
The first steps of the pattern are the pockets. Again, these are well designed, and so long as the notches are accounted for, they come out perfectly.
Above, are the completed pockets and and back of the coat. You can see the shawl collar extended up behind the back as well.
I added thread chains to keep the pocket linings in place.
Once the front is attached to the back, the raglan sleeves are set in. Here is where the neat design comes into play. At the beginning and end of each arm hole seam, there is an extra 1/2 inch seam allowance that is left un-sewn. By doing this, a little tab of fabric remains for sewing the collar onto the main body. This occurs at the corners of the picture below. It’s a great design, that works flawlessly.
With the main body of the coat finished, the front facings are attached and under-stitched. At the break point of the front facing, the under-stitching switches from the facing side, over to the self fabric. This creates the break point.
The lining is sewn together the same as the main fabric, except for a generous pleat in the back, and attaches to the front facing.
It’s almost done!
The lining is bagged out. This technique is a little awkward to work with, but gives a clean finish. The thick fabric at the bottom hem wasn’t sitting as flat as I would like, so I added some stitching to help it.
Once the lining and hems are completed, the jacket gets it’s buttonholes. I sewed these in by hand because I love the technique, even though I’m not great at it. These button holes are certainly not up to Savile Row standards, but work well enough for now.
To finish, I added a coconut shell button
Overall, I am very pleased with the coat, and the pattern. I will definitely buy more patterns from Tessuti. I’m not an experienced coat maker, and would put the difficulty of the pattern at a solid intermediate. Accurate cutting, and using the pattern notches are critical. It is also required to understand some basic / intermediate sewing skills like trimming corners, under-stitching, working with lining materials, and some basic hand sewing.
Here are some final pictures:
Looks a little baggy in the picture above, but fills out nicely when worn.