Thread Theory Winter Weight Crew

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This is the Strathcona Henley shirt from Thread Theory, made with synthetic wicking fabric from Outdoor Wilderness Fabric. I’ve been milling around in the sewing room all summer, but without any real results, so I’m excited to have finished something useable. 

Outdoor Wilderness Fabric is located in Boise ID, and I was in the area not long ago. They ship anywhere, but I was looking to purchase some bulky items like insulation and closed cell foam, which costs a fortune to ship. Their store has a wide variety of technical fabrics, insulations, foams, and hardware. It’s a great store, and they’ll have materials for any type of outdoor, camping, hunting, etc., projects.

As far as the pattern goes, there is nothing difficult about construction, other than the neck line. I found the best technique was to pin the neck line to the center front and center back notches, then stretch at the shoulders and distribute the excess fabric evenly and pin. Using all of the notches provided by the pattern maker made for excess stretch in the front, and too little stretch in the back.

After machine basting the neckline in, I serged it all together, and used a double needle to topstitch the shoulders, and back neck line. To stabilize the shoulder seams I serged in a 5/8 th inch piece of interfacing prior to inserting the neck line.

Full disclosure, I fought the neckline for about an hour, trying to distribute the ease appropriately. Once I finally had it, I accidentally destroyed the entire piece when my serger pulled in a fold of the neck and then chopped it up. The whole shirt was ruined, and I had to re-cut the front, back, and neck-line. It was pretty frustrating. So all these pictures are from version two.

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The rest of the construction is very straight forward. This shirt could easily be made without a serger also. I made a few alterations to the pattern including shortening the torso length by about three inches, and creating cuffs that are only 3/4 inch wide, instead of the 3+ inch wide cuffs on the original pattern.

One alteration I should have made for this fabric, was to reduce the amount of ease in the shoulder caps. There is plenty of stretch to this fabric, and less ease would have been easier to work with.

Here is the shirt right side out, and then inside out to demonstrate the serging.

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From the back, you can see a little of that excess ease not distributed well enough.

The next test will be to see how quickly the material dries. I intend to use this during the winter for skiing and hunting, and I need something that doesn’t hold moisture. But regardless, I’m glad to have a finished, well-fitting shirt.

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3 thoughts on “Thread Theory Winter Weight Crew

  1. Great post! awesome job serging! One thing I learned this year was understanding “swayback adjustment” for patterns when I see excess material in my shirt lower back area. You might want to read up on that and see if it applies to your sewing adventures! It has definitely made a huge difference in my fittings! Best wishes on your future projects! Look forward to your next project!

    Like

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